By Chris Murphy
Modesto is home to many great things, families, and places. Some are global game changers like the 1934 founding of Gallo Wines by the legendary Ernest and Julio Gallo. Some changed music with the 1938 sound of Maddox Brothers & Rose, laying down the beat for Rock ‘n’ Roll. The Downey (Dewey) class of ’62 became one of the world’s most famous graduating classes in “American Graffiti” in a film by Modesto native George Lucas that would change the film industry.
On top of all this, Modesto has an amazing food community. Local chefs are fortunate to enjoy all the fresh produce that quickly gets from farms to their kitchens. There are many innovative restaurants here in town that ‘shop local’ and our residents enjoy a farm to fork experience daily. Modesto is the center for fresh-pack tomatoes from Stanislaus Foods; we have Fiscalini Cheese; and an abundant supply of almonds, walnuts, grapes, peaches, and apricots. And let’s not forget one of Modesto’s lesser known crops: olives that produce that liquid gold, olive oil, cold-pressed and bottled right here by the Sciabica Family, founded in 1936.
Nearly a Century of Heritage & Innovation
Many Italians discovered the Central Valley in the early 20th century and found a climate and growing season similar to their home country. You know the names: Rodin, Ratto, Gallo, Fantozzi and others. Nicola Sciabica felt Modesto was much like his home of Marsala, Sicily and purchased a farm here in 1925. To this day, right along Dry Creek, the family continues to produce an amazing artisan-crafted olive oil. Yes friends, Sciabica’s “Marsala Olive Oil” is the oldest continuously produced olive oil brand in the USA.
Regions and the types of olives they produce are similar to how different areas are better for certain grape varietals. Olives have specific flavor profiles such as “buttery & sweet”, “robust & peppery” and more. In the 1980s, Sciabica’s took this to a whole new level, being the first to introduce single varietal olive oils with specific flavor profiles.
In the 1990s, the company pioneered a new concept of flavored olive oil, taking an innovative approach with the pressing of fresh fruit or herbs in combination with their fresh-picked California olives. In Italy, this method of flavored olive oils is known as ‘Agrumato’ and is not to be confused with ‘infused’ in which extracts or artificials are added to the bottle of oil. When it comes to Sciabica’s ever-expanding line of ‘Agrumato-method’ flavored olive oils, the lemons, garlic, jalapeños, or basil are actually pressed along with the olives.
Today, you can find three generations of Sciabicas working together. Nick and Daniel (Gen 3), Jonathan and Christa (Gen 4), plus Andrew and Nicholas (Gen 5). Sciabica’s is led by Jonathan who is taking the company into new areas (like brewing), building the brand, creating new flavors and inviting people to visit their local tasting room, a dedicated extension of their bottling plant and headquarters.
Jonathan’s grandfather, Joseph Sciabica, was a fixture at the Modesto Farmers Market and was the main face of Sciabica’s for decades. Many remember his knit cap and warm-welcoming smile at the company’s tent. A fun fact: Sciabica’s is also the longest-serving vendor at the Modesto Farmers Market and the San Francisco Ferry Building Farmers Market.
Assessing and determining flavor and taste attributes are integral to ensuring award-winning quality. A few years ago, Jonathan discovered that their then-newly hired marketing person, Craig Hilliker, had a skill for flavor identification. So they went to UC Davis to fine tune their skills and this led to Craig’s training as one of the leading olive oil “master sensory analysts” in the USA. He is not only responsible for Sciabica’s tasting program, he is certified and educates and judges nationally.
An Unusual Sidetrack
Over the last few years, with the expansion of their production facility and some extra down-time hours due to COVID closure, Jonathan and Craig began a personal journey to make the perfect beer; both are long-term craft beer aficionados. With a 5-gallon system, they started assembling the flavors as they were looking for the ultimate mellow tropical fruit Hazy IPA.
Through an olive oil tasting for Gallo winery’s sensory team, Craig met Bob Proffitt, formerly of Boston Brewing’s research group. This was a game changer. The company immediately hired him and started building a larger beer production facility. This micro brewery is located on Track 424, a spur off of the M&ET railroad. The brand name, simply Track 424 Brewery, now has its own brand of beer featuring Bright Track, the result of the original tropical hazy IPA quest. Brewing and production is done daily. New craft brews, including a Pilsner and Stout, are on tap and there are always some seasonal brews in the works.
While brewing is different than milling olives, Jonathan explains that dedication to flavor is the same as when they started in the 1930s. “Nicola loved the taste of the water at the Dry Creek “Heritage” farm which served as the foundation of our olive oil processing practices”. Today, all the water used in Track 424’s small-batch craft brewing is from the well at that same Modesto farm.
The Track 424 Tap Room has become Sciabica’s gathering room. Designed as a comfortable place with couches, tables and TVs to relax, taste and enjoy the various beers and even buy to take out. For those that enjoy cocktails, there are beer-based mixed drinks that taste amazing. You can enjoy $2 off craft beer flights on Fridays and Olive Oil tasting is always free.
Later this year, the family will introduce handcrafted flatbreads, topped with Stanislaus Food Products tomatoes, local fresh flavors and of course, Sciabica’s 100% California Extra Virgin Olive Oil.
So where actually is this place?
You have probably passed by Sciabica’s many times. Located at the corner of Yosemite and Mitchell, this bright green building can not be missed. And coming soon, you will see a cool new sign appearing on the roof. More and more people are finding and enjoying both the Tasting Room and Tap Room. Global tourists and national food writers visit and are wowed.
Sciabica’s ships nationwide – they have a special following in Japan – and is available at many local retailers, the Modesto Farmers Market, and directly from the factory Tasting Room & Gift Shop and Track 424 Tap Room.
Track 424 beer is available on tap at Fuzio, Twisted Pig, Bauhaus, Wings & Rings, and in cans at Camp 4, O’Briens Supermarkets, and Surla’s.
Thanks to the efforts of the Visit Modesto team, we are seeing a big jump in travel and tourism in our area by showcasing our almond blossoms, our great local cuisine and amazing foods that make our region something special. Sciabica’s is one of Modesto’s stars and I hope that you are able to visit and enjoy this delicious and important part of our regional economy.
P.S. The Tap Room just may become one of my regular hangouts.
Sciabica’s Olive Oil and Track 424 Tap Room
2150 Yosemite Blvd. Modesto
sunshineinabottle.com
@sciabicioliveoil
@track424brewery
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Did you know?
The OIive Oil market in the USA is $6.5 Billion.
The market is growing at over 5% each year.
Nutrient-rich oils are becoming a bigger part of our diet.
Producing oil from olive trees goes back to 4000 BC.
A wide range of olive varieties are used in the production of olive oil, including: Mission, Manzanillo, Sevillano, Arbequina, Arbosana, Ascolano, and dozens more.
