By Chris Murphy
I had my first real cappuccino in Italy back in 1984. In 1986 I lived in Seattle working for Raleigh Bicycles, our NW sales rep Donn Kellogg, came to our factory offices and brought me a “latte tall”. Kablam. I was hooked. The world of coffee has evolved and the nuances of the different regions, varieties and roasting methods can make coffee a very complicated product. It is just like wine and everyone has their palates. Just like we talked about in our September issue with Sciabica Olive Oil, there are experts in these fields right here in Modesto. If you want a lesson in coffee, Modesto has one of these experts in the Specialty Coffee scene.
I met Tony Serrano when the Queen Bean reopened way back in the day, and Tony had been a trainer and consultant. I learned a lot that very first day. He opened Wanderlust where Camp4 is today and more lessons were learned then as his famous Motucky Mocha gained fame (you may know it as Preservation’s Clubhouse Mocha or Caffettino’s Chaga). After helping build San Jose’s Barefoot Coffee, Modesto’s espresso world charged into the 21st Century when he opened his Serrano Social Club on J Street. He sold it to Paul Tremayne as Preservation and Tony went on to consult and develop brands with his Independent firm, The Coffee Wrangler LLC. His influence has touched every sector of the global coffee scene from seed to cup. Coffee Farmers around the World benefit from his understanding of terroir and processing. Tony is a Good Food Awards judge and has been the Master of Ceremony for over a half a dozen United States and World Barista Championships! He’s executed countless special projects and rebrands over the years, Hub Coffee in Reno the most recent. And some of you may recall that Pre-Covid he was spotted in Tye Bauer’s Bauhaus lounge emphasizing Tye’s unique brand of hospitality. All in all the first sentence in his Barista Magazine cover article was correct, “Tony Serrano is a BadAss!”
The Coffee Wrangler is focusing on the needs of our local coffee culture again. He is the consultant for Volente Coffee, with the Modesto Gospel Mission, and has created a vocational training program utilized for their New Life Program and rumor has it that Sam & Ruhi, our new Queen Bean royalty, have asked him to help launch their new brand with staff training once some of their major remodeling is complete and equipment & Menu updates are introduced. His wife of 14 years, Joselyn, and daughters keep Tony striving for a better community. Over the years, he has become one of Modesto’s best ambassadors and we have become good friends. He is truly as his Instagram handle reads @1solidserrano
Let’s see what Tony has brewing.
ModestoVew: Why coffee?
Tony Serrano: Coffee, yeah… at first it was just one of as many jobs I could hold down while going to school in San Francisco. My first coffee gig was at a roaster in the SoMa as ‘Flavor Boy’. Not very glamorous making hazelnut-irishcream-whateveryouwant coffees. Luckily, that bad experience paled soon thereafter which helped me continue to grow. A couple of Barista Gigs showed me that I liked the daytime coffee bar positivity versus the nighttime booze bar debacle where my other jobs were.
MV: People are used to a version of popular coffee that isn’t really the true flavor, can you describe the difference between the usual cup America drinks and a specialty coffee experience?
TS: The “American” cup seems to focus on way more milk and sugar versus just coffee. Specialty Coffee reveals through careful attention in roasting a better quality of bean that coffee has a myriad of complex flavors without having a big gulp of flavors added to mask poorly roasted beans.
MV: What was your first custom blend and why did you do it?
TS: I couldn’t tell you what those first blends were over 20 years ago but I can tell you that I approach blending coffee like an author approaches character development. Blends, to me, are personalities and I hope they tell the story intended, from a balanced and calm hero to the vibrant and enticing villain. What part do they play in a company or cafe’s offering list, it’s cast if you would?
MV: What mistakes do many first time coffee shop owners make that you could help them avoid?
TS: I could write a book about this subject, but to keep it simple… New owner operators should make a priority in equipment budgeting and bar design for efficient interaction between staff and customers before they focus on the Pinterest list of best design influences. Form follows function, people!
MV: We have a lot of Modesto experiences, but you seem to have become one of the go to people for just sheer local positivity, what drives you?
TS: Modesto is my home. I’ve lived in big cities and traveled all over the World, but this is where my heart beats and those dearest to me hang their hats. I’m proud of the community we have and every local should be honored to share what we love about home! Let’s talk about the Modesto coffee experiences, Chris. Historically, there were only a couple of coffee specific cafes, but now we are buzzing with Specialty service!
Modesto coffee. Let’s run some numbers…
1 Preservation Coffee is keeping it real with the old Social Club menu and multi-roaster style.
2 Penny University where Auni, of Preservation & Wanderlust fame, has launched with her partner, Laurel, in the old Cafe Deva J Street location after a couple of well spent years at the Modesto Certified Farmers Market.
3 Bakeshop is rocking Volente Coffee with all of Ashley’s fresh baked goodies.
4 Culture Coffee is a beautifully busy little hub from Jaimie’s small trailer roots serving Cat&Cloud with pride!
5 Caffettino is my favorite fresh roasted coffee in the Valley! Gio and Gianna are sourcing amazing fresh crop coffees and roasting on the planet’s best coffee roaster, the Loring Smart System! I love what they’re doing on Coffee Road.
6 The Queen Bean has proven its place in Modesto history with Debbie’s near 20 year offering of a classic “Coffee House” to Ruhi & Sam breathing new life and purpose as the home of the Modesto Artist Movement. I really look forward to what’s to come and not just because of my connection creating the Around the World Mocha menu 19 years ago to being able to help where needed now!
MV: You are currently also serving as an ambassador of sorts to our culinary world, how did that happen?
TS: I was approached by DoMo & DID to narrate and host a video series that shed light on the Cuisine, Culture & Community of Modesto. We gathered video content with interviews of local restaurateurs during the week of DoMo Walls. Keep your eyes and ears peeled for multiple videos to be released before years end.
MV: Conversation is everything, one of my favorite experiences with you was sitting at the counter at Bauhaus, going through your punk / new wave 80s playlist and sampling food and wine; how important is that in a food and drink space?
TS: I take hospitality very seriously. Conversation and a playful environment makes pretty much everyone happy and comfortable, right? I know you dig it, Chris! Every retail environment I have ever worked for is treated like my home and I want my guests to know how thankful I am that they chose to visit.
MV: What is your ideal day in Modesto?
TS: I’ll start it off with espresso at Caffettino, then to the farmers market. I’ll stop by Bakeshop for Cardamom buns and s’mores cookies. If I’m lucky I get to stop at Chinn’s for a pint and some Loco Moco and if I’m the luckiest man on Earth, my lady will go for tapas at Bauhaus, whipped feta at Camp4 or Painkillers and pizza at Churchkey.
Beatles or Stones?
Beatles hand down, Chris. Don’t be silly. The Stones are a great blues and rock&roll band but the Beatles are everything! You
obviously never saw the video Joselyn posted of li’l Serrano at a talent show singing Black Bird acapella, did you? We raise ‘em right at the Serrano Stronghold.
You can connect with Tony here thecoffeewrangler@gmail.com<mailto:thecoffeewrangler@gmail.com> and follow him on IG at @onesolidserrano
